Gucci launches Vault vintage site during Milan Fashion Week
Gucci launches Vault vintage site during Milan Fashion Week
Fashion houses trying to figure out how to reach new eyeballs long after the pandemic centered around a singular idea: collaboration.
Many are doing it in big and small ways. Gucci, which “hacked” Balenciaga last season, is now launching an e-commerce site showcasing vintage Gucci products and capsule collections refurbished by young designers. Hatmaker Borsalino is collaborating with French brand Ami Paris and equestrian-inspired brand Echeval.
If the fashion industry is going to change, now is the moment, insiders say — even if the temptation to go back to old habits is great.
Highlights of the fourth day of the Milan runway shows on Saturdays for next spring and summer:
Gucci on Saturday launched an e-commerce site that features refurbished vintage Gucci pieces along with capsule collections by young designers selected by Gucci’s Creative Director Alessandro Michele.
Michele said the project was born out of her life-long passion for collecting fashion, including Gucci items, before joining her brand.
“Yes, I do this to tell stories. But I also do it because I really love objects, ”he told reporters in Milan.
The young designers who include London-based Priya Ahluwalia are among them. Of Nigerian and Indian origin, Ahluwalia’s upcycled collection has already found a wide audience ranging from sports figures like Lewis Hamilton to middle-aged hipsters.
“Completely out of the blue, I received a message from Gucci. I thought it was an advertisement or spam,” said Ahluwalia. “When I realized it was real, I was overjoyed.”
Michele said the brand has a vast network of sources for vintage Gucci, which it is using to rebuild its collection. The launch includes a white Jackie bag, carefully taken care of by its previous owner which he wanted to keep for himself.
Then, laughing, he said, “Who knows, maybe I’ll log on tonight and buy it myself!”
Gucci has stepped away from the Milan Fashion Week calendar, finding its own rhythm. Its next show is in Los Angeles on November 3, coinciding with the 10th LACMA Art – Film Gala, which is sponsored by Gucci.
Dolce & Gabbana lights up Fashion Week
Dolce & Gabbana wanted to shine a light on glamor with their latest collection — and they did. His dazzling look shone a spotlight that could easily be seen from orbit.
The silhouette was unexpectedly sexy, built around corsets, micro-mini dresses, and skimpy lingerie, fundamental elements in the brand’s creative language.
This season, designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana layered textiles with rhinestones, added beading, and indulged in metallic accents and fringe, with light-refractory embellishments. Models walked down a mirrored runway under the rowing spotlight.
Contrast with a dense bejeweled jacket, narrow camouflage cargo pants or distressed jeans. A chain jacket had flared sleeves straight off the couture runway. The trousers were low waist, leaving room for studded lingerie.
The designers said the collection was a “reinterpretation of the 2000s aesthetic”. She paid tribute to Jennifer Lopez with a pair of J-Lo T-shirts.
Quieter moments were reserved for statements featuring almost sheer corsets with lace accents and open fronts, and even short black body suits.
The shoes were stiletto sandals with laces, knee-high boots and mid-calf boots, which contributed a bit of backup in the fast-tempo final as the models slowed down the stairs. The shoes came in satin, denim, camouflage and alligator.
Each Dolce Box handbag had a unique design.
Although in Milan for the show, the designer appeared virtually on a screen for her traditional post-show bow.
Arthur Arbeser’s Lost and Found
With World’s Ground nearing halt, Arthur Arbeser’s team primed their creative juices by recycling shipping boxes into cardboard flowers and crocheting fantasy hats.
The title of the collection, “Lost and Found”, refers concretely to the inspirations found in a family attic that evoke pleasant memories, but can also mean things lost and found in a pandemic, such as in quiet moments. The joy of making things.
“I realized that it’s very important to do something with your hands because you get a kind of satisfaction, and we need that satisfaction,” Arbeser said.
In the wake of the pandemic, the Milan-based Austrian designer has happily abandoned the runway for more personal presentations, turning a storefront in Milan’s tony luxury shopping district into a creative studio, decorated with a bespoke mural and The table displays a new line of clothing. With your latest collection.
The details from the mural became an embellishment on the pocket of a dress. Long romantic silhouettes contrast with crop tops. A mini-dress in black-and-white check was paired with a boxy print shirt, while a short skirt in tapestry had a youthful appeal. Prints of the season include naive illustrations, colorful checkerboard prints with pixel effects, with gingham, retro plaid and stripes.
“The most important thing to keep going,” Arbeser said. “We are delighted because we feel that the well being of us and your team and those around you is very important.”
Borsalino’s Travel Diary
There is nothing like a pandemic shutdown to rethink a business.
It’s time for 164-year-old Italian hatmaker Borsalino to focus on new collaborations, expand the brand into leather goods and scarves through licensing deals, relaunch its digital presence, optimize production and move out of machinery. which might otherwise have been inactive.
“It was a good break. We made decisions that weren’t easy to make before,” said Philippe Campario, the principal of Heres Equita behind the relaunch of the Borsalino.
To reach new audiences and expand distribution, Borsalino collaborated with Paris brand Emmy on a simple cloche with a wavy edge, and with Echeval on a raffia capsule collection featuring ribbons with a horse silhouette Is. The website now includes tutorials on how to shape and wear the hat. And Borsalino is working with young designers at the Marangoni Fashion Institute to make hats part of their styling language.
Launched this week, the Spring/Summer 2022 collection travels to Japan, Italy and South America. Dark denim baseball cap and bucket hat personalized with charms or geisha prints for a Tokyo hip look. A hand-crocheted raffia hat represents Sicilian craftsmanship. And along with the distinctive ribbon come Ecuadorian influences on the Panama hat.
Every brand has a different reaction to how the pandemic has changed or challenged them.
“For us it is up to us to embrace today’s values, to be socially responsible, including sustainability and the circular economy, and to have diversity in terms of appealing to all,” said Creative Director Giacomo Santucci.
Ferragamo’s summer story
The Ferragamo woman for next summer is understated in an easy-to-wear silhouette with sexy moments.
Smock dresses have deep-revealing Vs and open backs, while more form-fitting wrap dresses have suggestive slits. Trousers were loose-fitting harem pants with draped details, for example, with a crisscross top.
“I wanted the collection to feel feminine and sensual,” said design director Guillaume Meiland.
Menswear included knitted combinations, low-waisted trousers with braided belts, and leg-baring shorts under coat jackets.
For women, footwear revived Vara and Varina ballerinas in new materials including rattan, and an open-toed sandal for them.
Brooke Shields, with daughter Grier Hansie, had front-row seats alongside American actors Ashley Benson, Madeline Kline, Ashton Sanders and Ross Butler.
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